“Survival Story and Sweet Legacy: How Chinatown’s Oldest Family Business has Fed Generations Past and Present”

By APASA Intern John Park and Justin Kuo

Started in 1938 by F.C. Chan and his wife, in the heart of LA Chinatown stands Phoenix Bakery, a landmark business that has withstood nearly a century of economic ups and downs while remaining family-owned and operated. Their daughter Kathryn Chan Ceppi, Trojan and former occupational therapist,  continues to maintain this sweet legacy despite facing what she describes as the most challenging time in the bakery's long history.

The bakery originated from her immigrant parents' longing for familiar flavors from China. "When they first arrived here, of course, the language was difficult. There was not much available to Asian Americans," Ceppi shares. Her father recognized a universal truth: regardless of economic conditions, people celebrate milestones with sweet treats. The bakery's motto, "Sweets for the sweets," captures this enduring principle.

"My parents started this business," Ceppi explains as she recounts childhood memories. "As soon as we could do something productive, we were put to work. I worked here until I graduated from USC and started my career as a therapist."

Now, Ceppi and her brothers manage what she proudly describes as "the oldest family-owned bakery in Los Angeles," a distinction that recently earned them coverage on NBC. The bakery's significance extends far beyond being just a business—it's a cultural touchstone that connects generations.

"We have four generations of consistent customers here," Ceppi notes. "'My grandmother brought me here. My mother brought me here. Now I'm bringing my children here.' I hear it every day.” The loyalty of their customers is remarkable. Ceppi recalls one who drove a cake all the way to Las Vegas because her father "won't have any other cake."

Despite its storied past and loyal consumer base, Phoenix Bakery faces significant modern challenges. "I think the hardest time is right now," Ceppi admits, citing multiple factors: restrictive hiring regulations, sharply rising ingredient costs, and declining foot traffic in Chinatown. 

The demographics of their customer base have shifted as many Asian American residents have relocated to the San Gabriel Valley. Ceppi notes that "the Latino population is probably the majority of our customers right now.” 

Phoenix Bakery continues to adapt to fight these challenges. A large majority of the front-of-house staff speak both English and Spanish, ensuring a sense of hospitality for all of their customers. They’ve adjusted hours and operating strategies to compensate for lack of business at certain times of the day.

The question of succession looms large. "The next generation, your generation, has graduate degrees," Ceppi states.  "I have two children with PhDs. They're not gonna work here."

This generational shift in cultural demand for higher education is a common challenge for legacy businesses. "We're trying to find people that will do some of the managerial stuff," she explains, noting that she and her brothers are approaching retirement age. Their cousin is also cross-training kitchen staff to allow himself to step back too.

For now, the focus is on survival and adapting to changing circumstances. When asked about expanding to the San Gabriel Valley where many Chinese Americans have relocated, Ceppi emphasizes the immediate goal: "I think we have to ride out these times to be able to survive it."

Despite the obstacles, Phoenix Bakery remains a vital cultural institution—a testament to immigrant determination, family values, and the universal language of celebration through sweets. As Chinatown itself evolves, this historic bakery continues to adapt while honoring its past, remaining a sweet cornerstone of Los Angeles culinary history.